Gian Paulo Belloni speaks almost no English. But no understanding of Italian is
necessary to pick up on Belloni's love of food, enthusiasm about the restaurant
business, sense of humor and well-mannered, sincere charm.
Language barrier or no, Belloni moved to Las Vegas earlier this year to open Zeffirino Restaurant at The Venetian, an offshoot of his family's famed Zeffirino's in
Genoa, Italy.
Belloni's culinary talents became noticed throughout an ever-widening circle of
guests. The roster of celebrities who have made it a point to dine at Zeffirino's in
Genoa has included boxer Muhammad Ali, opera singer Luciano Pavarotti, entertainer
Liza Minnelli and actors Sophia Loren, Charles Aznavour, Vittorio Gassman and
Roger Moore.
The list of guests at the original Zeffirino also includes Frank Sinatra and Pope John Paul II. Belloni calls cooking for the pope in 1990 his most gratifying moment.
He created a dish of ravioli stuffed with fish and boiled in scorpionfish broth that he
called Raviolini del Papa.
"The pope enjoyed everything," Belloni relates through [Rino] Cola [a public relations professional who translated during a recent interview with the chef], and even postponed the audience that was next on his itinerary to enjoy his meal and talk with the chef.
Belloni adds with a broad smile that John Paul II called Belloni "the chef of the
pope and the pope of chefs."
Belloni also has appeared on numerous television programs and has been profiled
in many publications throughout Europe. He has traveled throughout the world to
represent Italy in a variety of culinary competitions and celebrations.
Belloni came to Las Vegas to oversee the opening in May of a branch of his
family's famed restaurant in The Venetian's Grand Canal Shoppes, leaving the operation of the original to his brothers.
The restaurant features furnishings and artwork imported from Italy and, in its
kitchen, authentic Genoan cuisine.
Giannina makes the homemade pasta at Zeffirino, Cola notes, adding that
everything served in the restaurant -- including its famed pesto -- is made from scratch.
Also joining Belloni in Las Vegas are about 30 staff members who formerly worked with him in Italy.
Here is the recipe that impressed Pope John Paul II. Anglerfish can be obtained
from seafood purveyors, while halibut can serve as a substitute for the scorpionfish.
RAVIOLINI DEL PAPA
(Pope's Ravioli)
For the dough:
1 1/2 pounds flour
3 eggs
6 teaspoons water
1 teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons olive oil
2 tablespoons dry white wine
For the stuffing:
1 pound of lobster meat
3/4 pound scorpionfish or halibut
3/4 pound anglerfish
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 scallion, chopped
1/4 head lettuce, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
2 eggs
1 teaspoon marjoram
1 teaspoon nutmeg
Grated peel from 1 lemon
For the broth:
1 gallon water
4 pounds small scorpionfishes (or use bones, head, shell and other remains of fish
from above)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 carrot
1 onion
2 stalks celery
Pinch of parsley
2 ripe tomatoes
1 teaspoon natural honey
2 cloves
1 grated lemon peel
3 peppercorns
Make dough for pasta by placing flour on flat surface, then adding eggs, water and
other dough ingredients. Knead dough until ingredients are combined and let dough rest
on table for several hours. Roll dough out thinly on table and cut into small squares.
To make lobster filling, mix lobster meat and meat from boned fish and chop into
small pieces or process in blender until meat mixture has mousselike consistency. Heat
oil in pan, add chopped scallion and lettuce, and cook for about 5 minutes to heat
through. Add fish and salt to scallion and lettuce and cook for 5 more minutes. Remove
mixture from heat and allow to cool. Chop mixture with a knife, add remaining
stuffing ingredients, and mix.
To prepare broth, put all ingredients except pepper in cool water. Simmer over low
heat for about 2 hours, skimming away foam that rises to the surface. Strain broth and
add pepper.
Form ravioli by placing stuffing mixture onto a square of pasta, covering with
another square of pasta, then crimping edges by hand.
Boil the ravioli in broth, 5 to 10 minutes, until the ravioli rises to top of broth.
Remove ravioli and serve with garnish of parsley.
Makes 6 servings.
Gleaned from the LVRJ, Dec. 29, 1999.
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